Burgundy World

What a difference a year makes

Sun, 29 Mar 2009 04:00:00 GMT

The other night we opened another 2000 Monthelie les Clous from Daniel Buisson-Dupont, friends gathered. Quite a change from the first time we had it a year ago, this time full of power, thick and full. Why the difference? Well, a few possibilities. First, the food last Friday was delicious, grilled chicken with apricot and Basmati rice with a thick apricot jus, followed�by some cheese. Also, we had served a lighter Savigny-Les-Beaunes to kick off with, so perhaps the contrast of styles had something to do with it. Moreover, this particular bottle had been cellared in Burgundy, rather than in Paris, and had lots of time to get up to room temperature. But most of all, wine is a living creation, it evolves, and a year can be just enough to bring about radical improvement. A- now. What exactly is it that gives it such a high mark?

Two Volnays

Sun, 29 Mar 2009 04:00:00 GMT

I am starting to think that the best wine growers must be from Meursault. First there was that Monthelie Les Clous, by Meursault man Daniel Buisson-Dupont, and now we just had a stunning Volnay Champans Premier Cru 2002 by Jean-Marie Bouzereau, again based in Meursault. The same evening with guests we had a Volnay village 1998 from Volnay, Michel Lafarge again. This older wine was venerable, elegant, but perhaps a little thin, possibly� because of its age. B-

Pommard power

Sun, 29 Mar 2009 04:00:00 GMT

This Pommard 1er cru Les Poutures 2000 from Domaine Lejeune packed a punch and was easily the strongest Burgundy served at dinner a few weeks ago during a meal that showed a Savigny Les Beaunes 2003 and� a Volnay 1998 village. The Pommard thumped home strength and elegance, but perhaps lacked the extraordinary creamy fullness of some Monthelies. B

My Monthelie sisters

Tue, 24 Jul 2007 04:00:00 GMT

Reds; kaleidoscope and fireworks, starting from 4-5 years in, incred at 10. B+

Little Italy

Thu, 02 Dec 2004 05:00:00 GMT

At their best, Italian wines, particularly the reds, are match for most French wines. I still remember evenings over Barolos in London, or the so-called chambr� wines in Roma, chambr� being room temperature in August. It was like soup.

More Monthelie power

Mon, 24 Mar 2008 04:00:00 GMT

Okay, I admit this is not my favourite Monthelie and not as grandiose as the famous Douhairet sisters, but it is captures nicely one of the characteristics some people love about Burgundies: a clear lucid colour belying a nice, full finish. Daniel Buisson-Dupont is in Mersault. I wonder if he is related to Buisson-Battault? I don't know his Meursault, but a quarter of his small production is Monthelie red; this 2000 Monthelie is simple and elegant, with just enough pinot noir power at 13%. Not the kaleidescope of flavours of a bigger Burgundy, but just enough complexity there to complement a fine lunch. C+

Pinot noir viewed Sideways

Tue, 24 Jul 2007 04:00:00 GMT

When I heard this quote in the movie Sideways it was refreshing; that this is exactly how I and probably zillions of others have felt and even described Burgundy reds in the past. Perhaps we were not wrong after all.